Removing tranny is easy. Undo inner cv joints, connector for speedometer, wires for reverse lights and shift rod set screw.

Remove large rubber cover and small rubber plug from rear bell housing so you can get to bolts holding the coupler in place. Remove the bolts and slide the coupler all the way towards the rear of the car until it is no longer engaged with the drive shaft.

Remove bolts/nuts holding tranny to rear bell housing. Support tranny with jack and remove the two 13mm bolts (heads facing the passenger's side) that hold the mount to the top of the transmission and then lower the tranny away.

While you're in there parts. I figured that as long as the whole rear suspension had to be lowered might as well refresh the ORIGINAL bushings/hardware.

Bushings are for the carrier to frame mount, banana arms, and front A-arms. I was told NOT to use the polygraphite spring plate bushings so I went with the Elephant Racing polybronze bushings. Very nice pieces.

Aluminum pieces are solid mounts for the carrier arm and torsion tube ears.

New rear brake lines.

PolyBronze Spring Plate Bearings

Here is a shot of the torque tube and CVs bagged.

Remove exhaust system, heat shield and the rear bracket that is attached to each side of the tunnel.

Remove shifter assembly The shift rod can be removed once the suspension is lowered.

Start loosening (not removing) all of the bolts holding the suspension in place:

1. Bottom shock bolts.
2. Carrier block in picture (2 bolts, 1 nut).
3. The carrier block at the end of the support arm (1 nut and bolt).
4. Banana arm through bolt and nut

Here is my rear suspension suspension.
Secure your suspension at this time and remove the flexible brake lines.

Remove the front carrier nut and bolt on each side of the car.

Remove all of the loosened bolts except for the banana arm nut/bolt.

Remove the two old rubber bushings where the suspension is bolted to the frame near the top of the tire

Remove the brace bar that is in front of the torsion tube.

New Solid Carrier Mounts in place. Leave the one on the right loose. The one on left needs to be matched with the marks on the arm.

This is what the spring plate looks like with the carrier removed.

This is the torsion tube carrier removed. Drive the old rubber bushing out with a big hammer and a large deep well socket.

Polygraphite bushing. You have to ream the opening to accept the new bushing. Be careful to make sure the bushing is tight, but does not bind.I test fit with bearing grease and then once done clean all surfaces and use plastic bushing lube.

Replacement TT going in.

It took me several tries to get the suspension re-installed. If you have a rear sway bar, disconnect one side. Here is the sequence that worked for me.

1. Install the carrier block (red arrow) to the frame and leave the bolt (light blue arrow) loose.

2. Install the torsion tube carrier. Hand tighten the nut and bolt that holds the front bushing in place. DO NOT install the bolts marked by the yellow arrows.

3. Bolt the torsion tube ear mount to the frame (green arrow). You will need to watch both sides at the same time because they both go up at the same time and if the mount on one side binds on the frame, the other one will not reach the frame on it's side.

4. Tighten carrier bolts (yellow arrows). You will have to work the control arm up and down until the carrier aligns with the torsion tube.

5. Tighten carrier mount (light blue arrow).

6. Install Carrier front bushing nut and bolt.

7. Install lower shock bolts.

8. Install brake lines.

9. Tighten Control Arm nut and bolt.

10. Install transmission & CV joints.

Here's what started all of this. The drive shaft was not fully engaged in the pilot bearing so the clutch disc was riding on the end of the shaft.